For centuries, Switzerland has been regarded as the cornerstone of luxury watchmaking. Its reputation is built on precise craftsmanship, technological ingenuity, and enduring style. Famous regions such as the Jura Mountains and cities like Geneva and Biel have become synonymous with top-tier timepieces, often drawing enthusiasts from across the globe. However, while Switzerland dominates the luxury watch narrative, there’s another nation crafting exceptional timepieces that often goes underappreciated.
Germany’s Place in the World of Watches
Germany may not immediately spring to mind when thinking of watches, but it certainly should. Known globally for precision engineering and high standards in manufacturing, Germany brings these qualities to horology as well. As the fifth-largest watch exporter, trailing only behind Switzerland, Hong Kong, China, and France, Germany has firmly planted itself on the global watchmaking map.
With over 100 active brands and approximately 4,000 employees in the sector, Germany’s production is anchored in two main regions: the Black Forest city of Pforzheim and Glashütte in Saxony. In 2016 alone, German watch exports were worth about €1.7 billion—a fraction of Switzerland’s CHF 19.4 billion but still a testament to quality over quantity.
Glashütte: Germany’s Watchmaking Capital
A Small Town with an Outsized Impact
Tucked away in Saxony’s Ore Mountains near the Czech border, Glashütte is home to just 7,000 people. Despite its modest size, it has a rich watchmaking heritage that spans over 170 years. The town’s transformation began in 1845, when Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a trained watchmaker, decided to turn Glashütte from a fading mining town into a horological center.
Supported by the Saxon government, Lange emphasized specialized manufacturing and modern techniques. His efforts laid the foundation for a sustainable industry. Key innovations like the three-quarter plate, enhanced lathes, and adoption of the metric system helped distinguish Glashütte’s approach from others.
Pioneers of Precision
Lange’s vision attracted other skilled watchmakers, including Carl Moritz Grossmann, who established Glashütte’s first watchmaking school in 1878. By the late 1800s, the town had developed a fully independent industry. Watches and precision clocks from Glashütte were used in navigation and science, earning global recognition. Notably, Roald Amundsen carried a Julius Assmann pocket watch during his South Pole expedition in 1910.
The Tumult of War and the Eastern Bloc Era
After WWII, Glashütte became part of East Germany, and its watchmaking businesses were consolidated into VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). Despite limited resources, GUB continued producing mechanical timepieces for the Eastern Bloc. During this era, innovation slowed, but foundational skills were preserved.
Following reunification, brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Mühle Glashütte returned to private ownership. Walter Lange, great-grandson of Ferdinand, spearheaded the revival of A. Lange & Söhne in the 1990s. Although the brand had no assets to start with, it quickly rose to international prominence thanks to its dedication to excellence.
Glashütte’s Renaissance
Today, Glashütte stands as a center of German watchmaking, home to a lot of respected brands:
- A. Lange & Söhne, now synonymous with class and watchmaking innovation.
- Nomos Glashütte, known for its minimalist, Bauhaus-inspired design and in-house movements.
- Glashütte Original, heir to GUB, specializing in detailed finishing and mechanical complications.
- Tutima, a name with roots in precision chronographs and military watches.
- Moritz Grossmann, resurrected by watchmaker Christine Hutter, continues the handcraft tradition.
- Wempe, which reopened the Glashütte observatory and created Germany’s first chronometer testing institute in 2006.
The Meaning Behind “Made in Glashütte”
Watches labeled “Made in Glashütte” must meet strict criteria—at least half of the movement’s value must be generated in the town. This regulation protects the integrity and authenticity of local craftsmanship, ensuring the label truly reflects its origins.
Why German Watches Matter
While Swiss watches continue to set the benchmark for many, German timepieces offer a compelling alternative, combining heritage, engineering precision, and elegant design. Whether you’re drawn to minimalist aesthetics, complex mechanics, or hand-finished details, German watchmaking—especially from Glashütte—deserves a spot in any serious collector’s conversation.
